Another challenge!  Embroidered blocks can sometimes be thick and difficult to piece together, especially if the batting and sashing are already added in the hoop.  Here is one way to get it all together and alleviate some of the extra bulk in the seams.

Putting together blocks that are too heavy (thick) to piece in the conventional 1/4" “quilt top” technique.

This technique forms a 1” sashing and alleviates bulk at seams and corners of thick blocks.

1)  Trim Block, leaving a ½ inch seam allowance all the way around.

2)  Cut Batting to same size. 

3)  Cut Backing 1” larger than Block and Batting on all sides.  i.e., If Block is 6”, cut Backing 8”.

4) Sandwich the Backing face down, Batting, and Block face up.  Quilt as desired, making sure not to extend stitching into the 1” allowance around the backing.  Embroidered blocks may already have backing and quilting done.

5)Place Backing sides of 2 finished Blocks together and sew on the 1”line.  This will be right next to the raw edge of the Block top and Batting, leaving a 1” seam allowance on the top of project. 

6)  Press seam allowance open.  The edges of your block should but against each other.  Press seam allowance edges under ½ inch to wrong side and stitch.  A decorative stitch works well. 

If you don’t want sashing on the quilt top, trim block with 1” seam allowance all around and Backing and Batting to finished size of block.  Place Block tops right sides together and stitch on 1” seam allowance.  This buts the Block edges together and puts the seam allowances on the back of the project.  Turn under and stitch in place. 

Challenged myself today to write up an HST pattern for a friend.  The picture isn't all that great and I've put 2 borders in the pattern to make it a queen size quilt.

        Fabric Requirements and Cutting Instructions for 42" wide fabric:

For the HST Blocks you will need 3 yards each of 2 colors.  Cut 10inch strips and Subcut to 10 inch squares.

For 3" Border you will need 1 Yard.  Cut 9 strips 3.5 inches by WOF  (width of fabric)

For 6" Border you will need 2 Yards.  Cut 9 strips 6.5 by WOF.

      Make HST Blocks:

Take 1 square of each color and place RST (right sides together).  Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the lightest fabric.  Sew 1/4" on both sides of line.  Cut on the line, press and square to 9.5 inches.This makes 2 HST blocks.  Repeat for remaining squares.

      Assemble Blocks:

Arrange in pattern. Sew the blocks into rows, then sew the rows together.

      Border 1:

Sew three 3.5 inch WOF strips together end to end and cut two 90.5 inch strips.  Sew border to sides of pieced top.

Sew two 3.5 inch WOF strips together end to end and cut to 78.5 inch strip. Sew border to top and bottom of pieced top.

Be careful not to stretch when sewing.  It may be helpful to find the center and quarter measurements and match them to help prevent stretching.

      Border 2:

Sew three 3.5 inch WOF strips together end to end and cut two 96.5 inch strips.  Sew border to sides of pieced top.

Sew two 3.5 inch WOF strips together end to end and cut to 90.5 inch strip. Sew border to top and bottom of pieced top.

You are done with the piecework and borders.  Quilt it, bind it, and enjoy it.

Scrappy Tumbler Flag

The Tumbler Block - versatile and creative.  Use it as a block by itself, or as a shape within a design block.  The tumbler shape is an isosceles trapezoid with one base twice the length of the other. For quilting purposes we must then add the 1/4 inch seam allowance on all sides.  There are many sizes and styles of rulers and tools to accurately and quickly cut tumblers so you can get right to piecing them together.


  

Scrappy Tumbler Flag





Scraps:  Red, White, and Blue variations.
18" X 26" Batting of your choice
1/2 yard Backing

Rotary Cutter, Ruler, Cutting Board
2 1/2" Tumbler Ruler

Sewing Machine
  1/4" piecing foot
  Walking foot

Thread: 
   Neutral for piecing 
   Red, White, Blue for quilting

Basic Sewing Supplies:
  Pins
  Scissors
  Additional favorite tools

*********

Cut Tumblers:
  25 Blue 
  40 Red
  34 White


Place tumbler shapes in a flag configuration and rearrange until they are how you like them. Beginning at upper left, stack the column together in order for sewing and number stacks 1 through 11.  Stitch each column in the order stacked. Press seam allowances on even numbered columns toward top and odd numbered columns toward bottom.  Arrange columns back in order and stitch columns together.  Press seams all to same side.




Place your batting, backing (right side up), and pieced top (wrong side up) together.  Stitch around, leaving an opening to turn.  Trim to 1/4"and clip valleys, peaks and corners.  Turn, press, and stitch the opening closed.

Quilting:  Echo quilt width of foot away from seams, around each row, using the matching thread color.  

Patchwork Pajama Pillow

Patchwork Pajama Pillow

1/4 yard of 2 different fabrics.  Yardage or Fat Quarters will work.

3 Buttons (about 1" or your choice)
Interfacing Scraps

Cut:

36 ea. 4" squares  (18 of each fabric)

6 ea. 2" X 4"  (3 of each fabric)

2 ea. 1" X 10" (for facing )

3 interfacing 2" X 4" scraps

TIP**  Lay fabrics right sides together before you make your cuts.  This will save time because all your squares will already be lined up and ready to sew.

Square your fabric and cut into 4" squares.  You will have 40.  Cut 2 pairs in half for your 2"X 4" pieces.  Cut facing pieces from left over edge strip.

Using an accurate 1/4" seam, sew pairs (one of each fabric) together, then sew together 3 pairs in strips of 6 blocks.  Sew 3 strips together in checkerboard fashion. Sew remaining 3 strips together also.

  

Make Buttonhole Tabs.  Place 2"X4"  fabric right sides together with interfacing on one side.  Mark center of one end and 1" down on each side of the same end.  Draw line to make point.  This is your cut line.  Sew around tab at 1/4".  Trim, clip, turn and press.  

Make a buttonhole on each tab to fit your buttons.

Make Facings.   Lay 2  sides out and turn to make checkerboard fashion. Measure from the center seam 4 1/2" and mark a DOT.  Find the center of one of your 10" strips and match it right sides together with the center seam of one side.  Stitch between DOTs and reverse or FIX stitch.  Do not go beyond the DOT.  

Place your button Tabs between marks on the 2nd side.  Center one and place other 2 just inside your mark.  Put 2nd facing strip right sides together on top of the tabs.   Stitch between DOTs and reverse or FIX stitch.  Do not go beyond the DOT.  

Press Facings to back side.  Press so that tabs stick straight out.  Pin the facing ends back so they do not get caught in the stitches of the next step.

Lay 2 sides of project right sides together and on each end stitch from edge to DOT and reverse or FIX stitch.  Do not go beyond the mark.  Smooth facing to back and press.  Top stitch around to hold facing in place.

Decorative Stitching can be added at this point if you like.

Fold square in half, right sides together, and stitch ends from fold to corner.  Take the 2 corners that you just ended your stitching on, and bring them together, forming a new seam from corner to corner of pillow.  Stitch this seam and turn project right side out.  Your Patchwork is now all "on point".

Sew on buttons and cut buttonholes open.

Project Bag with Vinyl Window

SUPPLIES AND FABRIC:

You will need your machine, basic sewing supplies, and the following.

Supplies:

7 X 7 vinyl square – I will have this available at club)

18X 20 Main Fabric 

18 X 20 Lining Fabric

18 X 20 Fusible Interfacing (I used Pellon 911FF.  It comes 20” wide.)

Prep Work:

Iron interfacing to wrong side of lining fabric.

Stack main fabric with lining right sides together.

Cut from stacked fabric:
1 - 12 X 12  Back

2 - 3 X 12  Window top and bottom frame

2- 3 X 7  Window sides frame

2 - 3 X 13  Straps

Cut as shown in diagram below.

You will have a main and lining of each size.

CONSTRUCTION DIRECTIONS:

1) Frame your window.

Place 3 X 7 main fabric and lining fabric Right Sides Together with one edge of vinyl between and sew 1/4" seam along outside of vinyl window.  Repeat on opposite side.  Finger press layers away from vinyl.

In the same manner, add the 3 X 12 in. top and bottom of the frame, beginning with a fix stitch 1/4 in.from side edge and ending with a fix stitch 1/4 in. from opposite side. Finger press layers away from vinyl. Top Stitch 1/8 in. around vinyl window

2) Attach back to front.

Pin or Clip 12 X 12 main fabric Right Sides Together. Making sure to only sew main fabric,  stitch from top corner around to opposite top corner.  As you pass the seam allowances on the sides, stitch right on the point where you left your 1/4 in seam allowance open in step 1.

Sew the lining back to the lining front in the same manner.

3)  Box the Corners.

Lay side seam line against bottom seam line at bottom corner, measure up 1 in. and draw line perpendicular to seam line.  Sew on line. Trim off the excess to reduce bulk.  Do this to all 4 bottom corners.

Turn main bag around lining bag, push out and straighten corners, and line up top edge of bag.  

4)  Make Strap Handles.

Using 1 main AND lining pair, cut in half the long way, making 2 strips that are 1 1/2 X 13.  Press 1/4 in. under on one long side of each piece.  With right sides together, sew lining and main strip along unfolded side.  Press open, then press wrong sides together.  Match folded side and stitch close to edge.  Stitch close to seam edge for reinforcement and symmetry.

       -or-

Using 2 main OR lining 3 X 13 strips, fold one long side in 3/4 inch and the other long side in 1/2 inch and again another 1/2 inch, overlapping edges on back of strap.  Stitch close to folded edge. Repeat for second handle.

      -or-

Using 2 main OR lining 3 X 13 strips, fold in half  the long way with right sides together, stitch long side and turn right side out.

5)  Finish Top Edge.

Trim top edge to even out if necessary.  Being careful not to melt vinyl to your iron, press under 1/4 in. around top edge, matching main fabric to lining.  Insert strap ends between, lining up outside edge of strap with window edge.  Top Stitch close to top edge.  Stitch again over handles for reinforcement.

All done!

Techniques Sampler Blocks 3 and 4 - HST's

HST - Half Square Triangle.  An HST Block is a square block split on the diagonal line, with one fabric on each side.  The HST is used as a building block for many, many, different blocks and designs.

Block 3 is the Pinwheel Block, made from 4 HST's.

Block 4 is  also made from 4 HST's, but in a different arrangement.

The only difference in these blocks is how they are turned and sewn together.  As is true with all patterns, please read through all the directions before you begin.


We will make 8 HST's each squared to 6 1/2 inches.  This includes our seam allowance to make our 12" finished block. Choose 4 of your fabrics and the background. I like to make HST's a little bigger and "square them up".  This helps keep your measurements accurate and your finished quilt flat. Measure and cut 7" squares from each of the 4 fabrics you chose and 4 from your background.  Use method 2 below to construct 8 HST's. Remember to check the measurement on your seam allowance and make any needed adjustments in order to use your best 1/4" seam.   Press them carefully so their bias doesn't stretch, and square them up to 6 1/2" using a ruler with a 45 degree line that you can place on the seam.  Arrange in the desired pattern and sew together.  Your blocks will measure 12 1/2".

                                      I'll put some pictures of the actual blocks here soon.

There are several ways to accomplish an HST.  Your HST can be its own block, or you can combine several HST units to make a larger block.  This is where you let your imagination run wild.  I want to give you some ideas and you can choose to make 2 blocks for your quilt from these, or you can create your very own.

Here are some of the methods that can be used to make HST"s.

1) Cut 2 triangles and sew them together.  Be very careful not to stretch the bias edge when you sew them together. I would suggest using your favorite starch product before you sew.

2) Cut 2 squares, draw a diagonal line, with right sides together (RST) sew on either side,  and cut on the line.  You get two.  This is the technique I normally use.  It's great for chain piecing and the resulting HST is on the straight of grain.  You also have less chance of stretching on the bias line since you sew before you cut.  Still, be careful not to "iron".  Always PRESS.

3) Cut 2 squares and draw 2 diagonal lines, making an X.  Here's the trick for 8 HST's on the straight of grain.  Sew on either side of each line.  That's 4 rows of stitching.  Then cut on your diagonal lines, cut center top to bottom and cut center side to side.

4) Cut 2 squares, sew all the way around, cut both diagonal lines.  You get four. This method is great for making blocks for a final project set "on point".  Since you are cutting both diagonal lines, you end up with your block on the bias.  Again, use your starch and add a stay-stitch along any edge that will be on the perimeter of your quilt.  As your project gets larger, the weight of it will tend to stretch those exposed bias edges.

5) Sew 2 strips together in a tube and cut triangles alternately from each side. This is a great method for making HST's and diamond shapes.  Everything I said about bias in method #3 applies here also.

Quilted Stained Glass Book Cover

Stitch up some Stained Glass for a book cover.  We will turn an ordinary composition notebook into a work of art.  Makes a beautiful gift or a treasure just for yourself. Learn these techniques so you can add stained glass to lots of different projects, or make a cover for any size book.

Supplies needed for “stained glass” project:

Composition Notebook (7.5 X 9.75)

4.0 double needle

⅓ yard of Black Quilters Cotton WOF

Scraps to fill in each “pane of glass”. I used 6 leftover charm squares for the sample pictured.

6 ½  X 8 ½ backing scrap (will not show)

fusible backing with 1 paper side

2 yards of quilters ¼”  iron-on bias, black.

11 X 16 thin batting (or slightly larger)

Cut black cotton:

(2) 6 X 11   for inside Flap  (use the selvage as the finished edge if you like)

(1) 6 X 11  for Spine

(2) 2 X 6 ½

(2) 2 X 11 ½

(1) 8 ½ X 11

Your cover can be any design you like, but will measure 11 X 16 when ready to sew book cover.  I have used pieced quilt blocks, applique, or an embroidered design.

For the “stained glass” cover cut a piece of fusible backing 8 ½ X 6 ½ .  Draw straight or gently curved lines through the rectangle and number each space. The numbers will help you assemble the cut pieces.  Cut on the lines and iron the shape to the wrong side of your chosen scrap. Cut around the shape and re-assemble on your backing, remembering that it will be a mirror image of your original.  Remove the paper and press in place.

Press fusible bias along each line and stitch down with a 4.0 double needle.  

Cut 2” strips to frame.  You need 2ea. 6 ½ and 2ea. 11 ½ .  Sew on top and bottom, then sides, using a ¼ “ seam allowance. Trim to 8 X 11. Cut an 8 ½ X 11 black and attach to the left side of the “stained glass with a ¼” seam.

Place on the batting and quilt as desired.  Trim to 11 X 16.

Finish one 11” edge of the inside flat if you decided not to use the selvage.  The spine piece does not need to be finished.

With right sides together, place the Flaps on either end of the quilted outside piece.  Then center the Spine piece. Pin in place and sew around the entire rectangle with a ½ “ seam.  Your inside measurement should be 10 X 15. Trim the corners and turn right side out.

Install your notebook and Enjoy.

BOM - Techniques Sampler Block 2

Block 2 is the center.  I'm not the biggest fan of doing applique, but I love the look.  I'll show you a couple of different applique techniques and you can choose the one you like.

BOM - Techniques Sampler Block 1

Really, it's a variation on "Rail Fence." Most Rail Fence blocks have 4 strips, and some only 3. I have 6 rails on this fence.

If you are just now joining us, check my previous post for fabric amounts and cutting instructions.

Prepare your FQ's by pressing and steaming very flat. Fold in half and "square up" one side, then line up on your cutting mat. I stack and cut 3 or 4 at a time.

Here we go again!

Many quilted projects, UFO's, and months later...   Back to creating.  I'm working on a quilt project that introduces several techniques and results in a large sampler lap quilt.

The plan is to do this as a BOM over 10 months.  Starting January, we'll finish October(ish), just before the wonderful crazy time of the year.  We'll do this as somewhat of a "mystery" since I'm still working on the technique blocks.  Each of the empty blocks shown in the picture below will be filled with a pattern as we go.  Hope you enjoy!

BOM - Techniques Sampler

A quilt-as-you-go experience for beginner to intermediate quilters.

Great for a group project.